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Roaké (a.k.a. Shalém):
a consummate card game involving high-stakes bidding and
strategy-savvy playing. Many people who have grown up playing other
(inferior) card games immediately convert--drawn in by the
competitiveness that bidding arouses and the criticism that bad play
evokes. A game that everyone can learn, Roaké has become the staple
recreational game in my last two communities: Gainesville and Ottawa.
How to Play Roaké
“Roaké is a game of unending appeal; of wit, courage, and patience”
Object: To reach 750 points with your partner before the other
team
Team: You play with the same partner, who sits across from you,
the entire game against another team sitting to your left and right.
Rank of cards: A standard pack of 52 cards is used. The cards,
in each suit, rank from highest to lowest: A, K, Q, J, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6,
5, 4, 3, 2. Three cards have special point values: the 5s (worth 5
points), the 10s (worth 10 points) and the Aces (worth 15 points).
Deal: The first dealer is chosen by continuing to place cards,
clockwise and face up, in front of everyone until the first Ace is
drawn at random. The turn to deal rotates. The cards are shuffled and
then dealt in sets of 4 with the remaining 4 cards put in the middle
of the table. Everyone should have 12 cards.
Bidding: The player to the left of the dealer bids first. There
are 185 points in the game, with 5s, 10s, and Aces worth 5, 10, and 15
points respectively and each round of 4 cards you win, a.k.a. book or
trick, is an additional 5 points. The lowest you can bid is 100 points
(or pass). There is no definitive way to access the value of your hand
except that long suits are good if you want to win the bid, and
strong, short suits are helpful to stop the other team from making
their bid or to help your partner make hers. The bidding goes around
increasing in increments of 5 until everyone has passed. Once you have
passed you cannot re-bid. The bidding usually ends around 120-135.
Winning the Bid: Once the bidding has stopped, the person who
has bid the highest picks up the 4 cards in the middle and decides
which 12 of the 16 cards he now has he wants to keep. It is generally
advised to discard at least one suit. The 4 cards that are chosen for
disposal are put face down on the table and represent the first trick
that the bidding team has won (and gets points for). A rookie mistake
is to put aces in this pile or to overzealously shove 10s and 5s in
here. The goal is more to strengthen 3 of your strongest suits by
eliminating the lowest cards than lock up sure points.
Leading: Once the 4 cards have been put down, the person who
won the bid must lead any card of the suit that they want to be the
cut suit a.k.a. trump. 90% of the time you want to lead (pick as
trump) the suit you have the most of.
Play of the Hand: Each player, in turn, clockwise, must follow
suit if able; if unable to follow suit, the player may play any card.
A trick containing a card of the cut suit (trump) is won by the
highest cut suit played; if no trump is played, the trick is won by
the highest card of the suit led. The winner of each trick leads the
next card. If your partner’s card seems like it will win the trick,
you should ‘feed’ him by playing a 5 or 10 of that suit, or if you
don’t have that suit, playing a 5 or 10 of another suit.
Scoring: Once all 12 rounds have been played the team with the
fewest cards is typically the team that counts their points, although
this doesn’t matter since there is always 185 points in total.
Remember that each trick (group of 4 cards) is worth 5 points and the
5s, 10s, and Aces are worth additional points. If the bidding team
gets at least what they bid, they make the amount they actually made,
but if not, they go negative the amount they originally bid. The
non-bidding team simply gets as many points as they make during the
game.
If the bidding team makes all of the points and books, instead of just
getting 185 points, they get 300, and everyone gives each other hugs
and high-5’s since this rarity requires both luck and skill.
End: Once a team reaches 750 points, or any pre-agreed upon
score, the game is deemed over.
Penalties: If a player does not follow suit, playing a
different suit than the one called for when indeed he could have, and
this is discovered after the hand is finished, the game is annulled
and 185 points is either awarded to the victimized team or penalized
from the offending one, based on the preference of the victims.
Hints Bidding Conventions:
Some of the more sophisticated players rely on a helpful bidding
convention. Bidding conventions must be disclosed to the other team
before the game and explained if requested. Here is a successful
introductory
convention.
| Type of
Hand |
Bid |
| Garbage |
Pass |
| Very Weak *Helping |
100 |
| Weak Helping |
105 |
| Medium Helping |
110 |
| Strong Helping |
115 |
| Weak **Winning
|
120 |
| Medium Winning
|
125 |
|
Strong Winning |
130 |
|
Very Strong Wining
|
135+ |
* Helping hand:
Balanced hand with about 3 of each suit. High cards and possibly aces,
10s, and 5s. Also known as a stopping hand since this is the ideal
distribution to stop the other team from making their bid.
** Winning hand:
A 6+ card suit or two 5-card suits with high cards. Having a singleton
(one of a suit) is beneficial.
Basically, if the bid is
not too high already, you indicate to your partner how string your
hand is with the following bidding technique. Knowing this info will
help you both decide how to bid.
Conservatism:
Often times players will lose control of their egos and ‘Ayafor the
bid’ a.k.a. bid too high. This is to compensate for other issues in
the machismo department and is always to your advantage. On average,
stopping the other team is 2.2 times more beneficial than winning the
bid in terms of the point spread. This is the secret of consistent
winning did ye but recognize. You will also notice that as the calibre
of playing increases, the bidding decreases as both teams markedly
improve.
Trump Suit Bidding Convention
Click here (
or
or
jpg
) to download the grand daddy of all bidding conventions, the one fit
only for professionals! This can determine what is your partner's
strongest suit, how many of your trump he has, the strength of his
hand, the distribution of his hand, and more!
Ottawa
Rankings
“F-Class”
1.Ayafor #
1.Martin
1.Sham
2.Payam
|
“E-Class”
1.Andrew
1.Vafa
1.Sarah
1.Aram
2.Gordon
2.Philippe |
“D-Class”
1.Jessica
1.Misagh
1.Tazz
|
"C-Class”
1.Sahba
1.Homa
2.Hooman
2.Jaleh
2.Hania
2.Setareh
|
Unranked:
Leroy,
Elham, Negin,
Arash,
and my mom *for various reasons |
These rankings should not offend anyone. It is just a reflection
of how much skill I’ve seen demonstrated in the time I’ve seen everyone play.
As you play more, and your name gets out there, your ranking as such will
surely increase. Therefore, be eager to prove these rankings wrong and advance
quickly, rather than whining and crying, which will accomplish absolutely
nothing. The rankings are slightly biased away from actual playing success
and lean more toward demonstrated skill and ability. And yes, I am prepared
to lose friends over this.
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